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Dear Customers & Friends
Hello from Japan! This is Kimono Flea Market ICHIROYA's News Letter No.268.
A little whole ago, I thought I saw the Armani's poster, which said he could distinguish ten thousand gray colors. It was interesting, and I felt he had to have very strong perception about colors.
When we began our business, we could not believe what some senior kimono dealer said. They said they could tell the fabric with seeing the colors of pattern. For examples, colors on jinken(rayon) and color on silk are different, and they could tell the fabric without touching it. When I heard it, I couldn't believe them. I couldn't see the difference what they indicated, and we thought it was the kind of imagination or fantasy
However, after looking lots of kimonos, we understood what they said. It's true that colors on jinken and silk are different, although we can not write precisely with words how the difference is. By the same token, colors on polyester and silk are also different.
It is interesting that a kind of perception seem to become keen by the experiences - although Mr. Armani must have special inborn gift.
Also about BLACK, there are various kind of black. Mohuku(funeral kimono), men's formal kimono and kurotomesode are made of black silk, and black colors are not same. For us, usual people, telling the difference between various black colors, but the difference can be told when they are put together under various lights.
In Kyoto, there are more than 10 dyers specialized in black dyeing. Of course, other dyers can dye black, but 'kuro-zome-ya'( dyer specialized in black dyeing) can dye especially beautiful and deep black color, which is recognized as special technique. Such 'kuro-zome-ya' usually also dye 'kamon'(family crest), because mohuku and kurotomesode always have kamon.
From olden times, how to get the deep black color have been the ultimate theme. Now, there also is a chemical black dyestuff, but when there were only natural dyestuff, black dyeing technique was the secret of each dyers. There are various technique to get beautiful black color. For examples, there are black color called 'ai-shita' and 'beni-shita' - 'ai-shita' means the fabric is dyed with 'ai' before dyed black. Even now, one of the most expensive black bolt is dyed with this technique, and valuable natural ai is used for dyeing the base of black color. On the contrary, red ('beni') also is used for dyeing black ( at first, dyed with red, and on the red, black dyestuff is dyed).
There is also the famous techinque 'san-do-guro' - technique to get black by three color dyestuffs of red, blue and yellow, three primary colors.
We can know partly how the black color was dyed, if we can see the end of bolt. Labels often have some descriptions, and we sometimes can see the blue or red colors part in the very end of bolts.
If it is completed as kimono, we can't know how the black color was dyed.
However, the genuine value of the black color seems to reveal over a long time. We often sell vintage kurotomesode(it is black), and we often come across the discolored ones. Especially at the border part between solid part and patterned parts, discoloration of black color is prominent. It seems to be because that 'kuro-zome-ya' dyed solid black part with their technique, and left the patterned part blank. Other dyer dyed various motifs in the blank part, and after the color dyeing, they dyed black the rest solid part. So the black part near the patterned part was dyed by the other dyers. When the kimono was new, difference between the black colors couldn't be noticed, but after a long time, the work of professional is proved.
Recently, mass-produced kurotomesode and mohuku seems to be added 'resin' on the black surface, which makes the black color more vivid, and in addition, it guards from stains and water.
Thank you for the reading the end.
We will list some karinui, haori, contemporary uchikake, yukata, bolt and antique items.
We are very happy if you could find your favorite items among them!
Have a nice weekend!
Ichiro & Yuka Wada
Kimono Flea Market "ICHIROYA"
http://www.ichiroya.com
e-mail: info@ichiroya.com
address: Asia-shoji Bldg.301
1841-1 Nishi 1 chome
Wakamatsu cho
Tondabayashi city
Osaka 584-0025 JAPAN
TEL&FAX ****( international number ) - 81-721-23-5446
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